Tag Archives: flyfishing

Houghton Michigan

I don’t know what it is about Houghton and Hancock that makes think I could live here. The scenery is unbelievable, the towns are small, but have everything an old fat guy needs, there’s some culture, some sports and outstanding outdoor activities. It’s very cool.

Seems like living here would be idyllic and stress free. Well so I freaking thought but I guess there are demons in everything, for example the dude that was behind me as I was  slowly driving through downtown gawking at the stores and sights. OK I was moving a little slow but I was on cobblestone streets and there are some pedestrians around.. So imagine my surprise when the rusted out ’82 Ford Pinto with the bearded fat ass and his mumu wearing fragrance free aged hippy wife pulled up behind me and started laying on the horn. Sheez dude whats the rush..

The guy whipped around me made a left turn merge into traffic with out looking, just about sideswiped another car, corrected by popping a tire onto the meridian and without looking back.. punched it and head off into the distance.Total Big CITY move.  WTF. these people are supposed to be mello.. remember that word? M E L L O. Must be a sale at the tie-die store or the hydroponic garden place.

I’m in Houghton this week to collect the oldest kid who has completed his first year of college. First year done? Already? And now he’s coming home? And it’s hardly May? I’m a little worried about how we’re going to be reintegrating him into the family to be honest. We’ve all sort of moved on and have a good thing going the four of us. Now we’re going to have to readjust and react to his return.

Could be a long summer. This is after all, the child who has a complaint about every nuance in his life, which gets wearisome after a while I have to tell you.

I made the trip this time with a friend of mine from the office. He’s a big fly fisherman and we’re planning to spend a couple days up here fishing and enjoying all that the U.P. has to offer. If, we can figure out where to go. We’ve sort of come up against an unexpected obstacle in our plans.. apparently no one here fly fishes. I mean nobody. The one shop that I found on the internet that was the “Headquarters” for outdoors adventures, and who BTW, on the phone told me that they were the place to be for information and advice.. well went there yesterday and guess what, not a clue.

“What flies are working now?” “Um.. I sell alot of these black ones..” That’s not a good sign. “any hatches going on right now?” blank stare… “Nymphing or dryflyes?”.. more blankness. “The streams look really low, where should we go?” Pulls out a map book and starts reading it.. um… well… this looks good here..”What’s good about it?” I think he noticed that it was a blue line and thus.. a trout stream.. “lot of people here use nightcrawlers”. We’re screwed.

We’re on our own. Went to the local book store and found a couple books. They should help, but with the water as low as it is up here.. we’re going to be scouting. A LOT. With, BTW, a car loaded up with student shit. Could have planned this better I guess.

The guy I’m with is actually one of the funniest human beings on the planet. On the way up remarked that “This was going to be great, couple single dudes on the prowl in a college town..”

WTF? Neither of us are single and uh.. we’re old. “Call your son and see if knows any chicks with a certain casual moral..” He was kidding of course.

“Call your son and see if there’s a Fawn Liebowitz at Tech.” The girl who, in Animal House was killed in the Kiln explosion, enabling the lads to get the sympathy dates. When I checked in I got the room, handed him the room card I got the comment “Can you get about 20 more of these.. sometimes you have to saturate the market to get a few hits”. OMG. Childish? You bet, but I’m laughing my ass of the whole way.

We will not be cruising cougars I assure you, but we will be joking about it now.

Today we check the kid out of his dorm, and leave Houghton for the summer heading west to Ontangan for the next couple days. Not sure on access in that town so posting may get spotty.

3 Comments

Filed under Life

Whitewater Visit

Minnesota’s Bluff Country

100_0093 I spent the day yesterday walking in and around a trout stream, fly fishing. Fly fishing is one of those few things that older I get, the better I am at doing it. Strange huh? Part of the deal is the older I get, more patient I am, at least with things other than human beings. Also as I get more experience, experience after all being the best headmistress a guy could ask for, I’m much better at reading streams. And finally, I’ve picked up a few tips, tricks and techniques over the years after fishing with some guides and with people who are really much better at this thing that I am. Just an aside here, the real beauty of fishing with a guide is really not so much that you’re going to catch more fish, you probably will, but that you’re going learn how do things differently, things which will make you a better a fisherman. It’s like like taking golf lessons, you play with a pro to learn how to improve your game. Flyfishing is sort of the same way, only a thousand times more fun.

There’s more to flyfishing, at least for me, than just catching (and releasing) fish. Flyfishing is a neat way to fish because to some degree, you actually become a part of the environment with the fish. You crawl into the water with them, you almost hunt the fist, looking for spots that you think look like they could be holding trout and you throw baits that look like things that the fish are naturally feeding on, at that time. Flyfisherman, in addition to being fisherman are also amateur entomologists as well. Studying what bugs are hatching when and what we think the fish might be inclined to feed on. Throw a baddis pattern when there’s a mayfly hatching going for example.. not really going to do much for you.

I remember one time years ago, fishing a creek in California that is famous for it’s clarity and for it’s super persnickety picky damn fish. If you weren’t throwing the exact thing they were keying on, and doing so in a way that offered the perfect presentation the frustration would kill you. Trout are well known for their frustrating habits. They like to come up, look at fly and then sink back to the bottom and wait for something better. In this case, my buddy, for whom flyfishing was more of a lifestyle than a sport, was doing it all right. Casting the bugs, perfect drifts, but just couldn’t get the fish to bite, no matter what he did. Finally he reached into his vest, pulled out a little net, seined the surface of the creek, collecting a few small bugs in the process and realized that the bugs in the creek were a bit darker than the ones we was throwing. He went back to his car, where he had a portable bench to tie flies on, wrapped up a few new flies with different looks to them, came back and just like that, proceeded to catch several nice fish. Of course if I had a couple pink marshmallows I could have probably done as well.

A Keeper of a Day

The day itself was a keeper. A fantastic day, one of the best days I’ve had with a fly rod in my hand in my hand in a long time. It wasn’t even the quality of the fishing that I was enamored with, although the fishing was decent, it was just of those days where everything seemed to come together in cosmic perfection.

Weather was perfect, at least until about 6:00 when we came off the stream, not to warm, not to cold.. a bit of a breeze but because we were down in a deep valley all day not a huge issue. The streams we’re running low and clear, which means fishing them was easy. Although you did have to be on your game to keep from spooking fish. Low water makes for weary trout. We hit the area at just the right time of year, the forest floor was carpeted in wildflowers, delicate white and blue highlights in a gorgeous deep deep green ground cover. In another month you won’t be able to walk along the streams due to the heavy undergrowth and chest high plants.Wildflowers
Southeast Minnesota, the bluff country, is one of my favorite parts of the state. The landscape is hilly, by our standards. It’s the one place in Minnesota that didn’t get flattened in the last time the glaciers went through so there’s some modest hills and change in terrain that you don’t find in other parts of the state. The rivers and streams have all cut deep valleys through the soft limestone, creating sheer white cliffs that and pinnacles that rise up through the hardwood forest up to 300 feet above the streams.  It’s just awesome.

I spent most of the day walking up and down the Whitewater River and Trout Run Creek, more enjoying the day than actually fishing. Although the cherry on the top of the day; all day long hatch after hatch of small caddis flies that had the fishing jumping out of the water all around me. Casting dry files to native trout who are aggressively feeding is one of the great joys of life for a fly guy. I managed to get about 8 fish to come to my fly, not the biggest fish I ever caught but all of them beautiful little living jewels. Native trout are really spectacular. Of course native is relative in this, as the fish I was catching were brown trout, European imports, who were introduced 100 years ago, and therefore probably can’t actually be called “native”. Brook trout would be the natives, but they’re a bit scarce these days thanks to the competition of their their European cousins and their sensitivity to water conditions. The brownies are a much more tolerant of some of the warm water issues that plague thanks to poor land use practices.

Trout Run Creek

On Trout Run CreekTrout Run Creek is a really nice little creek. Full of excellent holes that hold fish, good riffles, lots of bugs. It’s a very healthy trout stream. I hadn’t fished the Whitewater Valley in about four years, since before the big floods that ripped through the area in 2007. As a result of the flooding the stream is completely different from the last time I was down there. Some of the holes I remembered were no more, and there were new ones where the raging currents had scoured the valley. Interesting to see some of the just how powerful water can be. On one sandstone cliff, over the years kids had carved their names into the soft rock. In 24 hours a raging torrent of water, carrying sand and rock had completely polished the names off the cliff face leaving a clear line of where the water levels were. Now one really nice thing, the silt that had built up over the years, which in many places making it difficult to walk in waders as the muck had a way of grabbing your feet and sucking them down, was completely gone. The river bottom was pretty clean, rock and gravel and not much mud at all.

Trouble

After a day in the water I headed back to the campground I was sharing with 5 other guys, and that’s when the trouble started. Camp was good, the food was excellent, probably the best meal I’ve ever eaten at a camp out, like I have that much experience at camping. Some kind of chicken thing in a dutch oven. Very tasty. The evening was spent in the usual manly bonding debauchery that we middle aged guys like to engage in when were away from the wives and kids. Alcohol was involved. After a day of hiking and fishing, a great meal and then some whiskey and beer around a campfire we retired to our individual tents. Really. 6 guy and 6 tents, seem like a lot of tents.

Lets just get this out once and for all, I hate camping. I really hate camping, and what I hate about camping, is the sleeping on the ground, the cold hard ground with the lumps on it. Mrs S packed me for the trip, as you read Friday, and included in the pack her “air mattress”. When I hear “air mattress” I’m thinking a queen sized thing with the blower to inflate it that is just a step below staying at the Holiday Inn.

What I got was a thin little delated anemic pad that you opened, uncorked the end and then it would would magically fill with a bit of air, about 1/2 a human breath by my estimates. This little pad would keep you a millimeter or so off the ground Mrs S  swears by it, In fact, the thing is about as wide as 2 2X4’s put next to each other, and anyone who has ever seen me from behind knows right away that we’re going to have a problem here. My ass is gonna hang over something.. No matter what I do, something’s hanging off the pad. Lie on my back and it’s the outside 1/3 of each cheek, lay on my side and I have to pick, my fat butt or my fat gut.. but somethings going to be on the side.

What I really hate camping is the arthritis thing. The more this arthritis becomes a problem for me, the more I hate camping. That sleeping on the ground is a bitch when you have trouble just standing up in the morning. I mentioned to the fellows “you know what would make this night perfect?”, they didn’t, “if after the campfire we could all go back to our hotel rooms, or the 40’ travel trailer and get a good nights sleep.

Well that wasn’t to be. To add to the wilderness experience, about 5:30 I woke to the rhythmic but steady sound of rain falling on the tent. Lots of rain.By about 7:00 rain was accompanied by thunder.

If I’m not that fond of camping when the weather is good, well guess how I feel about it when the weather is Not So Good. F’n sucks. Next morning as the rain got heavier and heavier the I started to wonder about all the deer, turkeys and other pastoral critters were passing me on their way up the bluffs.

Scooby Doo has a saying for times like this- “Rrrupp Ro”. And that’s about what I felt.

One of the guys in conversation about the trip asked about camping. I was told by a mutual Jewish friend of ours that your people don’t like camping. Is there a Yiddish word for people who like to camp? I told him there was “Gentile”. It also can be used to describe people who are good at sports and people who like to fix their own cars.

So I’m done camping for a bit. But I’ve been completely bit again by the fly fishing bug… and after a long trip home (hour) and a three hour nap was in a much better mood to start thinking about next weekends trip. Sank and the fly rod hit the Upper Peninsula.
End of a long day in the troutstream

1 Comment

Filed under Life

Learnings from Trout

It’s the nature of things that some of the simplest of creatures can provide you with the most profound of lessons. I think it goes to the dumber the thing is, the more in tune with Natural Law. Natural Law being that which exists in nature and therefore, has validity everywhere.

I got to explain this phenomenon to a high school kid this weekend as he sought to understand the way of things.

Nate and I spent most of Saturday in pursuit of the lads new favorite fish, the wily trout, using his new favorite technique, the fly. More especially the “dry” fly with floats on top of the water, mimicking the bodies of insects who are emerging from the stream to find love and happiness, in their 2 hours of life above water. As the caddis flies and mayflies pile up on the water, spent after some good lov’n the trout in the stream go into a feeding orgy stuffing themselves with insects. Among fly fishermen, it’s the zone.. something that you can’t quite predict when it’s going to happen, but if you’re on the water when it does… it’s awesome.

It’s also the reason that really serious, over-the-top fly fishermen soon become sort of amateur entomologists, spending their time studying the insect life of streams, trying to get a handle on what bugs hatch when, and then what colors they are when they do, so they can run around creation snipping the hair off rodents and feathers off chickens and turkeys in an attempt to replicate the same . That whole fly tying deal.. for me, at my age, I consider it an accomplishment to tie a fly ON my line without putting on a pair of high powered cheaters. Tying small hackles, snipped from a single down feathers on to a size 22 hook.. that’s ain’t happening. I think it’s sort of like the elderly male version of scrap booking to be honest.

This trip to Wisconsin included my good buddy Jon the Fly Guy. Jon, is as serious a fly fisherman as there is in the world. Jon’s been to the rivers of Yellowstone, he’s fished Hat Creek in California where the trout are so discerning that breathing wrong while casting will upset the pool and put the fish off a bite. I like to fish with Jon, if for no other reason than it’s such a kick to see what he’s going to be wearing on a given trip. This is the guy who, if he could figure out how to make a living at it, would be a professional fly fisherman and as such dresses like a walking Orvis catalogue.

The man uses only the finest gear, rods with names I don’t recognize because the guides were wrapped on the thighs of virgins while looking at pictures of English chalk streams. His waders alone cost more than my spec car.. Jon’s a hero to Nate. Jon lives in California and regularly fishes the eastern drainages of the Carson river, where Nate first picked up a fly rod. He ties his own bugs, he builds rods, we wears the latest in sun protecting bug resistant clothing, and he’s got one seriously bitch’n set of waders and boots. But, as I point out to Nate, waders keep out water, and keep in smells and that’s about all they do. When push comes to shove we all drop’m down in the out house the same way.

Jon comes out to the Midwest on business a few times a year and if the season’s right he always takes me up on my open offer to hit a river while he’s here. As one who never looks past an opportunity for new fishing experiences he’s usually brings his stuff with him. That being said, fly fishing in Wisconsin, as opposed to fly fishing in California, is quite a different experience. For one thing, the rivers here would be called “creeks” out west, and the fish are typically smaller, and typically mostly brown trout. It’s also not quite the yuppie scene that it is in Cali. That’s not to say we don’t have our share of wannabe’s out there who shop at the boutique shops and would like to believe that they’re fancy fisherman.. but around here you’re just as likely to see guys with Bass Pro or Cabelas equipment standing in rivers in their shorts and sandals happily casting away.

The nice thing about Midwest fly fishing is that, although the fish are smaller and they’re not usually as discriminating as the delicate Redwood Creek strain of rainbow that I spend my youth casting too.. they are just as fun to catch and there’s a hell of lot more of them in a typical mile of river here than there are in a typical river there. That means, you do get to participate in the “catching” part of fishing not just the “fishing”. That also means that here, as opposed to my 20 year career of fly fishing out west, occasionally fish do no survive an encounter with the big guy as such are not released back into the stream… Occasionally they are get BBQ’d on the creek side.. Which I believe is part of the experience, one that’s lost on the yuppie crowd.

When Jon comes out here to fish, the amount of fishing luggage that accompanies him is impressive. It’s almost like, since they don’t really do a lot of fishing from boats in the fly world and are thus spared the $20,000 buy in the bass fisherman makes on a boat. As such, they can justify to themselves and spouses that spending $3,000 on fly fishing crap is actually a “win” because you’ve saved $17,000 over other fisherman. I can’t fault them. I’ve used the same argument myself around golf. As I’ve explained to my wife after she’s audited the credit card.. “but dear.. I don’t golf”. “But Dear” she replies, “golfing, and fishing, are not a rights.. your argument doesn’t work”

One thing that Jon brings with him when he comes is his portable fly bench. This little device sits on the dashboard of the car and allows him to whip out a few flies when he feels his currently inventory is missing something. Personally, I’ve carried the same half dozen flies into river every year and it’s always the same bunch. Elk hair caddis, parachute adams, yellow sulpher, blue thingine, hares ear and a prince nymph. Later in the summer I throw in a few grasshoppers and a nifty little beadle pattern and I’m good to go. I also have a nice supply of Royal Coachmen.. the RC is a fly that looks like nothing in creation, thereby bucking the idea that trout are picky. I like them for the bluegills and pan fish on our lake.. sort of fun to mess with them.

For Jon however, I’m sure the thought of throwing one of his precious hand-tied beauties to some pesky bluegills is out of the question. A few bass once in a while is about all he’s really interested in catching other than his precious trout. If you were to ask Nate about his favorite fish I think he’s starting to lean towards trout as well. Bass fishing is fun, it’s something that I grew up with and as such really understand it well, but at the same time, it’s a noisy pastime that involves boats and gas and electronics, expensive lures, lots of different rods and reels, and very little of the wilderness experience. My Wisconsin mentor Paul, often fishes with little more than shorts, a vest, a rod and a hat. If it weren’t for the stinging nettle on the bank I’m not sure he wouldn’t be out there naked from time to time.

With bass fishing, you miss a big part of that outside experience. Most of the time you’re fishing right off someones dock. And while that has it’s advantages, especially during the sunning season, especially at certain houses on our lake known to house coeds during the summer months.. It’s not the same as the feeling you get when you’re out there up to your ass in the fishes environment, water moving around you, wildlife around you, limestone cliffs on the side of the river… you might be 20 minutes from a metropolitan area, but once you descend into the river you’re really on another planet.

The last time Jon came out to visit we took him down to one of our favorite rivers in Western Wisconsin. The highly regarded, and deservedly vaunted Rush River. We packed up in the early afternoon, hoping to hit the water about 3:00, the evening hatches of baddis usually happening around 6:00 or so. As advertised Jon was decked out with amazing equipment. His newest toy was a 7’ 3wt Winston flyrod.. A wispy little stick with the sensitivity of torn cuticle, is a thing of beauty. Designed for the most delicate of casts to the most finicky of trout it seemed a bit much for the beer drinking cheese head trout you find in Wisconsin. Jon assured me it was “sweet” and “just right for fishing emerging midge patterns. Since I can’t even see a damn midge without a serious pair of cheeters I never fish them. Nate however was fascinated…

Parking the car, we walked down the bank to the river. I was violating Paul’s trust, as he had shown me these places in confidence. But it’s not like they were that secret, they were, after all below a highway bridge. Approaching the water Jon made the SHHH Sign and creeped up on the first little pool. There were a few rises.. bugs were in the air, and above them the swallows were swiping and diving,. We found some spots to get into the water and started fishing.

As is typical I had a hard time seeing the eyelet on my fly, which meant it was about 20 minutes before I could start casting. “You fishing or what?” Jon asked. Nate, my son, who’s been with me on a ton of these outings knew better… “He can’t see the fly, he’s going to ask me to come up there and tie him on in a minute. I’m going to make my way up ….” “NATE, Can you come here and..”

Tied on we started the art part of the sport. I may not be able to see flies so well these days, but I can cast like a demon. My favorite part of the sport, right after landing a good fish, is throwing big sweeping casts to fish, real or perceived, as far upstream as I can, just to see the line descend on the water, and watch the fly drift down the slick. It’s as fun as dropping those ½ oz jigs inches from docks fishing for bass.

I wasn’t doing to well, but Jon seemed to be on to something. He had a couple small fish on his emerging midge nymph whatever thingie. Seeing my buddy catch fish while I enjoyed casting, Nate dropped all family loyalty and headed up the river to Jon. One of the great things that happens on rivers in the afternoon is the passing of time. It’s amazing how such a mundane activity at home, or in the office, can become a religious experience on a stream. The shadows of the day get longer, the colors of the afternoon take on more pastel hints and the light begins to fade, the activity on the river picks up.. fish bugs starts flying and the swallows above began to be replaced by the bats.

I hate bats. I especially hate fly fishing when there are bats around because I’m certain one’s going to take my fly on a back cast and I’m going to catch one of the little rats. Then what cha gonna do.. I’m not touching it. My understanding is breathing air near a bat brings about plague and rabies.. no good bats.

As I was moving up the river Nate came running down to me… DAD… There’s some huge fish in this pool and Jon went to the car.. I need your keys.. “What’s he doing?” “Tying flies”… Catching up to them I learned that there was a blue thing hatching and Jon needed something other than the 200 patterns he had in his fly box. It’s amazing to see a guy who can whip out a fly in a 30 seconds in the back of a car… He tied up a half dozen and came back..

“There’s a whole ton of fish up there…” Up there was big pool upstream from where I’d been fishing. Jon had been casting to them with some dry flies with no luck. The fish where rising but he wasn’t able to get a hit. Even worse, they were doing that thing trout like to do to piss you off, where they rise to0 your fly, look at it and decide they don’t like it for some reason and drop back down to the bottom. Apparently that’s what had been going on with Jon and Nate… fish were coming up and looking over their stuff, but they weren’t committing. Jon, after skimming the water with yet another gadget, a fancy little net and a magnifying glass, had determined that the problem was the flies they were using were missing a critical color.. in this case blue, found in the wings of the bugs now floating on the surface.

Nate and Jon started casting their new bugs.. with the same results. “finicky little devils” was about all Jon could come up with. By now it was the sun was starting to set on the bluff, we still had a couple hours of light, and I was pretty confident that the best fishing was about to come. Actually, the locals also know when the best time to be on the river is, and as it got a bit later, we started to see the occasional angler walking along the river. Seeing the “good” hole was taken they’d nod, wave and move on to the next stop. I was enjoying watching my kid casting, and really wasn’t all that motivated to get back in the river.

As I sat and watched the guys, who by now had thrown several dozen different patterns at these fish, a old guy with an old eagle claw rod and spinning reel came wandering down the bank. Exchanging pleasantries he remarked on Jon and Nate standing the river.. “There’s some big fish in that hole”. “yeah, we know, that’s what they’re trying to catch.” “They’re tough.. don’t take flies too good”. About that time a fish rose with a splash that sounded like someone throwing a rock into the water. “That’s a good one!” Jon looked up.. “I have no idea what they’re rising too.” We’ve tried caddis, dunns, attracters, terrestrials.. not a clue, they’re pretty picky.

The fellow I was with laughed. “watch this”. He reached into vest and pulled out a tub of garlic flavored marshmallows. With a wink, he tossed one of the marshmallows up stream.. as it drifted down there was an explosion as a fish attacked the yellow blob…

Jon and Nate looked up.. “What the heck was that”. “Sugar Jon. .they’re hitting on sugar.. garlic flavored.” The old fellow laughed and threw in another one, with the same results. “I guess they get sick of bugs after a while. They’ve been eating marshmallows since I was kid”.

Turns out the fish are pretty picky, but what they aren’t is finicky. The lesson for Nate here, and Jon for that matter.. don’t over analyze, and never underestimate the wisdom of experience.

3 Comments

Filed under Life